Why You Should Go (Literally) Underground at Istanbul’s Basilica Cistern

by Alys | City Guides for Urban Trekkers, HotSpots

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Have you ever imagined stepping into an ancient underground palace where the air is cool and a bunch of weird Medusa heads look as if they are looking at you? If not, give it a try, especially if you are planning to spend a few days in Istanbul. Dubbed the “Sunken Palace” by the locals, the most famous underground location in Istanbul brings you awe-inspiring engineering, a dash of mythology, and a touch of cinematic fame. Here’s some intel on why you should visit the Basilica Cistern the next time you’re in Istanbul.

Reason 1: Basilica Cistern’s history is more than 1,000 years old

If you care about Istanbul’s history, isn’t it tempting to explore one of the city’s most significant remnants of the Byzantine era? The structure was initially commissioned by Constantine the Great during his reign in the early 4th century CE but was significantly expanded by Emperor Justinian I in 532 CE, shortly after the Nika Riots, which left about half of Constantinople in runs (Istanbul’s former name). With the city in need of both rebuilding and reassurance, Justinian decided to build a cistern worthy of an empire. Situated beneath what was once the bustling Stoa Basilica, this vast reservoir provided water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and other key structures in the area. Historical accounts even describe gardens encircled by colonnades above it, in contrast to the shadowy, atmospheric chambers that remain today.

Basilica Cistern 1
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Can you feel the vibe?

For centuries, the cistern fulfilled its role as a key part of the city’s water system, supplied by aqueducts stretching all the way from the Belgrade Forest, 19 km (12 mi) away. However, after the Ottoman conquest of 1453, the cistern fell into disuse and faded into obscurity. Fortunately, the French traveler Petrus Gyllius was curious enough to investigate an unusual water source and, because of it, Basilica Cistern was rediscovered in 1545. More specifically, locals in the area were lowering buckets into their basements to retrieve water and even they were even catching fish from what seemed to be an endless underground pool. Intrigued, Gyllius investigated further and found himself rowing a small boat through the shadowy columns of this forgotten Byzantine masterpiece.

Basilica Cistern 5
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Pretty or not pretty?

Reason 2: It’s pretty, in its own, dimy way

It is not controversial to say that Basilica Cistern is a great example of medieval engineering, technically-wise. And while underground dim spaces are not for everyone, you may well appreciate the type of prettiness this cistern has to offer.

Let me elaborate. After descending the 52-step stone staircase, you’ll find yourself surrounded by an underground forest of marble columns that seem to stretch endlessly in every direction. Spanning 138 m (453 ft) in length and 65 m (213 ft) in width, this massive rectangular chamber covers an area of 9,800 sq m (105,000 sq ft) and could once hold 80,000 cubic m (2.8 million cubic ft) of water.  

The structure is supported by 336 marble columns, each standing 9 m (30 ft) tall. Arranged in 12 rows of 28, the columns are a mix of styles, with Corinthian and Ionic capitals stealing much of the show. Many of these columns were “recycled” from older Roman and Byzantine structures, a practice known as spoliation, making them not only functional but also historical artifacts in their own right. The columns are reflected in shallow pools of water creating quite a visual atmosphere. Wander along the raised walkways and soak in the cool, damp air as the dim lighting enhances the mystique of the space.

Basilica Cistern 2
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A less dim picture of the Basilica

When looking up, you’ll see a ceiling made of brick and supported by cross-shaped vaults. This arrangement distributes the weight of the earth above, while the 4-m-thick (13 ft) firebrick walls, coated in waterproof mortar, ensure that the water remains where it is supposed to.

With a bit of attention to detail, you will notice the “Tear Column,” a standout feature among the Basilica Cistern’s forest of marble pillars. This column is adorned with intricate designs that resemble cascading droplets of water or, as some suggest, the knots of a tree.

Have I already convinced you?

Reason 3: Nobody knows why it has two Medusa heads

Do you like your underground explorations to have a bit of mystery attached to them? If so, you’re in luck, as nobody knows why Basilica Cistern has two Medusa head carvings serving as the bases for two of the 336 columns. Found in the northwest corner of the cistern, these ancient sculptures, one positioned upside down and the other tilted sideways, have sparked centuries of speculation. Why are they there? Why are they oriented in such an unusual way? The answers remain shrouded in mystery, though several theories have emerged over the years. Some believe that Medusa heads were placed in these unconventional positions to neutralize her legendary gaze, which, according to Greek mythology, could turn onlookers to stone. Others suggest a more practical explanation: the heads were simply repurposed materials from earlier Roman or Byzantine buildings and were installed without concern for their orientation.

Medusa head at Basilica Cistern
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Remember, don’t look into her eyes! Don’t look into her eyes!

And if you can’t remember Medusa’s story, here’s something for some memory refreshment:  Once a beautiful sea nymph, Medusa was cursed by Athena, transforming her hair into writhing snakes and giving her the deadly power to petrify anyone who met her gaze. Beheaded by the hero Perseus, her head was later used as a weapon before being gifted to Athena, who placed it on her shield as a symbol of protection. Not nice Athena.

In the context of the cistern, the Medusa heads might have served a symbolic role, offering protection against evil spirits or paying homage to ancient beliefs. Their striking appearance amidst the cool, shadowy atmosphere of the cistern arguably makes them a must-see for visitors like you.

Reason 4: It’s part of popular culture

Now, I’m not saying you should visit a place just because it’s part of popular culture. But some people like doing this, especially if they are visiting a place that was featured in one of their favorite books, movies, or TV shows.

Basilica Cistern 6
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This looks like a good setting for an adventure movie

The cistern was found to provide the perfect atmospheric backdrop for several films and novels, including:

  • James Bond’s “From Russia with Love” (1963): Sean Connery rowed through the cistern in pursuit of Soviet secrets
  • Dan Brown’s Inferno (2013): This novel, later adapted into a film, brought the Basilica Cistern to life as the site of a dramatic showdown.
  • Assassin’s Creed: Revelations (2011): Gamers got a chance to explore a section of the cistern in a memory sequence
  • The International (2009): This thriller featured a fictionalized version of the cistern

The fact Basilica Cistern was featured in so many stories suggests one thing: many find it an interesting place. Perhaps so would you.

Reason 5: It’s cool, literally

If you’re visiting Istanbul in the heat of summer, keep in mind that Basilica’s natural cool environment makes it a perfect spot to take a break from the hot air you will experience while wandering on the streets of Sultanahmet.

How to visit Basilica Cistern

The structure is located in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet district, just 150 m (490 ft) southwest of the Hagia Sophia. The entrance is easy to spot, often marked by a small queue of visitors.

The cistern is open every day from 09:00 am to 18:30 pm. For those into unusual entertainment locations, there is a “Night Shift” from 19:30 pm to 22:00 pm, during which special music concerts and events take place​​​​. The entrance fee is around $22 (€20).

Note that the cistern is accessed via a 52-step stone staircase. While the interior pathways are flat and well-maintained, the initial descent may be challenging for visitors with mobility concerns. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended, as the cistern’s walkways can be damp and slippery.

If you’re exploring other attractions in the area, consider purchasing a combined ticket or pass to save time and money. You can also visit Basilica Cistern with a guided tour. Some of these tours will only take you to the cistern while others also have other landmarks included, such as Hagia Sophia. The most popular tour, when taking into account the number and type of reviews, is Topkapi, Hagia Sophia and Basilica Cistern Tour. As the name suggests, this 4-hour tour will take you to see not only Basilica Cistern but also Hagia Sophia mosque and the Topkapi Palace. Also popular is Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Cistern & Bazaar Tour, which lasts for 5 hours. And if you would rather spend time on a 30-minute tour that focuses on the cistern, consider taking a look at Basilica Cistern Tour, Discovering Medusa.

Other cisterns in Istanbul

The Basilica Cistern may be the most famous, but it’s far from the only underground reservoir hidden beneath the streets of Istanbul. With around 200 cisterns scattered throughout the city, there’s more for you to explore if you’ve just discovered you love exploring Istanbul’s undergrounds.

One place you can go to is Binbirdirek Cistern (Cistern of Philoxenos), located near the Hippodrome. This is the second-largest cistern in Istanbul and features 224 columns. Its columns are simpler in design compared to the Basilica Cistern but are quite impressive in scale.

Yet another option is Cistern of Theodosius, which was rediscovered only in 2010 when Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality demolished an annex building. This cistern functions as an Archeology Museum and comes with a 360-degree projection mapping system integrated into the cistern’s structure.

Bottom line: There are at least 5 reasons to go to Basilica Cistern

Allow me to sound a bit commercial. Visiting the Basilica Cistern is the thrill of walking beneath a giant millennial-old city and exploring structures with over 1,500 years of history, all in a cool, dim atmosphere. It’s not for everyone, but it is for me. And now it’s time to decide whether it is for you as well. I gave you five reasons to visit Basilica Cistern. Has at least one of them convinced you?

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